Welcome to the Magna Information Board Archive. This archive contains a grabbag of useful tips and/or frequently asked questions collected from the old InsideTheWeb information board. Now that the MRA has its own board with persistent forums, this page will no longer be updated.

As with everything from the wild frontiers of the Internet, you use this information at your own risk.

• Stuck behind a "smart" traffic light?
• Can't hear your stock pipes?
• You installed Dave's shims and broke the bike...
• More crossbreeding: Marauder bar swaps
• The tooth fairy: how to swap the front sprocket.
• On plugging tires
• Keep your fingers warm year round

• Jardine Exhausts
• Cobra Exhausts
• Vance & Hines Exhausts
• Jardine Forward Controls
• Crossing a Camaro and a Magna: the K&N filter
• Targa 1/4 drag fairing
• Twice the fun? Two up on a Magna
• Soft luggage
• Mustang Seats
• Sargent Cycle Seats

• Those pesky smart traffic lights

  Anyone else having trouble being "recognized" by the smart traffic signals with the embedded coils in the roadway? In my area, if your bike is the only vehicle at a light, you'll be there all day waiting for it to turn. My opinion is my bike doesn't have enough iron to trip the roadbed sensors which I assume to be electromagnetic coils. Positioning my bike either on top of the coil loop or between it doesn't help. I end up either having to wait for a "boost" from a car pulling up behind me or just flat out run the light. Poor choice any way you look at it.

  Have not gotten a suitable response by local law types on how to fix the problem or what they'll do if I choose to select a safe spot and run it. Best guess though is they'll nail me.

  Wondering if this is a local oddity or wide spread? Opinions???

  HOTMAG

  • I have the same problem in Pa. Seem to have better luck tripping the lights when I stop directly over one of the magnetic strips. (CraigO.)
  • Same thing in New Jersey. I usually just carry a bunch of large magnets with me when I go riding to counteract this problem (Lymon)
  • In my city there are buttons for the pedestrians too, I just ride close enough to the sidewalk(or on it ) and press the button, works fine. (Philipp)
  • Those traffic lights use what is called an inductive loop. Basically a large loop of wire is embedded in the pavement and a small amount of electric current is run through the loop. When large metal objects pass over the loop it changes the current through the loop slightly. The light mechanism picks this up and knows there is a vehicle waiting to turn. Problems occur when the loop is not sensitive enough to pick up smaller metal objects like motorcycles.

    To maximize your chances of tripping the sensor:

    1. Put your wheel directly over the seam in the concrete if you can see it. That will put as much metal as close to the loop as possible.
    2. If you know a particular light is tough to trip, try braking late and hard to make your front end dive. This will bring your engine 2 or 3 inches closer to the pavement and can really make a difference in triggering the light (of course watch out for oil and fluids or your could end up a lot closer to the pavement than you planned)
    3. If all else fails try giving a very short push of your starter button. Your starter draws a lot of current and generates a pretty strong magnetic field that might trigger the light.

    All that said, there are 2 lights near work that I have to run unless someone in a car pulls up behind me. Never been pulled over but I also wonder what the cop would do if he saw me run one?

    David S.

• Need an amplifier for your stock pipes?

  I know this has been covered several hundred times before but I was never interested untill I priced aftermarket pipes. What is the best way to remove the stock baffles? I want a lot of noise and am tempted to get Jardine drag pipes but am too cheap. Can anyone help?

  Ron

  • Try www.magnariders.com/html/tips_tricks.htm (Bob M.)
  • Basically you need to perform these steps:
    1. Drill out the rivits of the plates for each exhaust.
    2. With a pair of vise grips, clamp the grips to a portion on the round exhaust pipe that sticks out.
    3. Take a mallet and give the grips about 5 good hits and the plate with the baffle attached should pull out. (a 2nd pair of grips to clamp on to the 1st pair will help with hitting the mallet to remove the plates).
    4. Hack saw off the portion of the pipe that has the bulb (baffle) on it.
    5. Re-rivet the plate back on to the exhaust pipe and your done.

    Ron

  • To assist with the removal, I used a punch to pop out the back of the rivets and then drilled out the remainder. Remember to have a long thin magnet to assist in retrieving the rivet pieces that fall back farther into the exhaust system. GOOD LUCK. (Sel)
  • I did mine a little different. After pulling the baffles, I cut the pipes off but left the "bulbs" intact (you'll see what I mean). This left the pipes/endplate stock. I re-attached the assemblies using stainless screws but left two out on each pipe. I like the sound and can make it louder or quiter by putting the screws back in or taking more out. Welding is not necessary if you are careful removing the endplates. If you bend the tailpipe a little it can be straightened, then repainted with High-Temp paint. Try it, if its still not loud enough do the entire mod.(C.J)
  • No, it does not sound as good (as an aftermarket pipe) (MATT #159)
• Dave's shims gone bad...

  I installed Dave Dodge's shims today, along with the K&N Filter. The bike now revs slower than before. The choke isn't working right. It pulses when it idles... on the other hand, the lean surging is gone. I think my carbs need synchronized. Would this cause the problems that I'm having? I did mess with the adjustment screws by accident. Anyone have any suggestions?

  Steve

  • I hope you left the stock shims in there as well?

    Also check and check again to make sure you didn't create a vaccum leak! Especialy if your bike ran O.K. before you did this. It sounds like a vaccum leak or you're still a little lean. Also make sure your exhaust doesn't smell different. And check the bike's temp if you have a gauge.

    AK45

  • If the bike is running real bad after shim installation, I would tend to think that something is not assembled correctly. Make sure the crankcase vent hose is re-attached to the air box. Did you put the snorkel back on?

    Back to the K&N discussion. Many have installed this conversion with great success, and I get many more e-mails about un-succesful attempts. The conversion is not cut and dry, as almost everybody has no clear definition of how to install it. It can be turned in either direction, set high or air lid ground to sit low in the plastic. Truth is I spent a good deal of time looking at all the possibilities, and don't see the perfect fit I would feel comfortable with. First of all, the filter needs to be the same thickness as stock to allow proper air flow and not rest (or hit) the carb bells. The K&N actually tightly covers one carb completely, half covers another, and clears the last two. TRY PUTTING A STOCK FILTER BACK ON, and see if it helps. Modified stock exhausts are not number one on my improvement list either.

    Dave Dodge - DRP

  • Do you have after market pipes? if you do you might have to do the jets also. #105's is what Dave Dodge was saying . (jake)
• Switching bars with a Marauder

  What specifics are required for the Marauder handlebar mod?

  Sel

  • I happen to visit this site and the MIG site(Marauder/Intruder Group www.migcruisers.com) quite often. I've noticed that a lot of the Magna riders like the looks of the drag bars on the Marauder(as do I). I have also noticed that many of the Marauder riders on the MIG site want bars that pull back more. I thought some of you might be able to talk a MIG member or two out of their bars. It certainly would be much more ecconomical for all involved. It is my understanding that the shaft size is the same so the Magna risers along with the bars could be traded for the Maruader bars with built in risers.

    Monique -- wife of HOTMAG

  • Not a big deal from the Magna point of view. Nothing readily makes itself visible from the Marauder view point either but since I couldn't actually swap I can not say first hand.

    I bought new Marauder bars. They bolt right on with no fuss. Magna riders will have to drill two 3/16 holes to locate the switch locater pins. I also found that there was excess slack in the control cables that necessitated some creative relocating. Nothing hard...just be sure there is no binding when you are done.

    The stock mirrors fit right back on but unless you bend the stem downward a little, you'll be looking at your forearms more than you'll be comfortable with. If you bend them, wrap the stems with masking tape to protect the chrome and bend them in a vise, not on the bike or you might break the aluminum mirror mounts. That's about it.

    HOTMAG

  • It is true that if you reverse the stock risers that a simple 1" chrome drag bar will work just fine? This will give you approximately 1/2" clearance from the tank with the bars turned left or right to full stop position. This is without a doubt the least expensive way of doing the drag bar modification. Marauder bars are $118, other options include "finding" longer risers at $125 on up plus a dragbar. I searched high and low for different bars/risers to no avail. The dragbar with the risers reversed gives the bike a "beefy" look ... really mean lookin'!

    RADMAG DARREN MRA#222

• How to change the front sprocket

  I have purchased the smaller front sprocket to go on my 96 magna and was wondering what is the best way to get the old one off, new one on, and adjust the chain/rear wheel?

  Sam

  • Remove the bolts from the side cover. When you take it off be careful not to let the clutch shaft come out. Take the cable off the shaft and put the cover aside. There are small round bolt guides about 3/4" long that may come off when you take the cover off. No problem. Just slide them back in the holes in the engine. If the clutch shaft comes out don't panic. Get a set of needle nose pliers an pull out the round bar in the cover housing, put the shaft and spring back in and then put the bar back.

    As for the sprocket: remove the bolt by putting a wrench or socket on it, get on the bike, hold the rear wheel break down and turn the bolt out. Since you're putting a smaller sprocket on all you need to do is slide the old one off, chain and all. Maneuver the sprocket a little an it will come right off the chain and into your hand. Put the new one on same way. Believe its 50 foot lbs on the torque wrench for the sprocket bolt.

    The rear tire loosens on the right side. Adjustor nuts on each side of the axle in the back. Play on the chain is 3/4 to 1 1/8 inch. Info on this is in your owners manual. Bike can be on stand and back wheel does not have to be off the gound.

    Garry Lapides

• Tire plugs or a new tire ?

  I picked up a screw (Phillips) in my rear tire. Anybody have any opinions (Hah!) about whether it's safe to use a plug? I don't ride too hard (short bursts at 80 are about my max, although it's hot here a lot of the time).

  Gary Karasik

  • My personal choice is replacement of a damaged tire because you never know how seriously an inner cord has been damaged by a penetration. That said, if you are going to plug your tire INSIST the repair be done with a "plug/patch". Learned about these patches riding 4-wheelers.

    The tire must be removed from the rim to do this. The inside of the tire is roughed up and a special plug having a discardable metal sleeve (for pushing through the tire) and an attached round patch base about 2" in diameter is pushed through the tire from the inside and glued in place. The plug will not slip out per centrifugal force and slow leaks are eliminated at the patch site by the attached wide circular base. The metal sleeve is then removed and the plug clipped at the tire's surface. Remount the tire and balance if required and you're on your way.

    I've always been told a patched tire should be de-rated one grade and you really should adhere to the change by not exceeding speed or load limits associated with the grade. BTW, a great majority of us here feel that patching the front tire is inadvisable in any fashion except a possible emergency repair to get you to a new tire dealer.

    (HOTMAG)

  • One plug in the rear should be O.K. NO JOKES, as long as it isn't close to the side wall. GOOD LUCK. (Sel)
  • Why take the chance with your life? Take the money and insure your tire. (Kevin [MRA#176])

• ... HotGrips warmers
  • I just installed a set of "Hotgrip" electric handgrips and took them for a test ride. BOY,these babies put out some heat! For those of you who ride year round and hate fighting bulky gloves and reduced grip sensitivity, not to mention blue fingers ;o) this may be your ticket.

    They're reasonably easy to install if you have some basic electrical knowledge, a few wire woking tools and a soldering iron. Stock, they're on all the time but I added an inline rocker switch ahead of the (optional)temperature control to solve that. Controls were mounted in the black plastic cover on the left side of the steering head and look very sanitary. I sourced the power from the fuse box so they are fuse protected and powered only when the ignition switch is on (plus my rocker switch).

    I think top output is 15 watts and unless it cold enough to freeze fire you'll probably not need that much heat, so do yourself a favor and get the control rheostat. Total was about $130.

    These get a toasty two thumbs up! Ride safely ya'll! (HOTMAG)

• ... the Jardine Megaphone Exhaust
  • Just received and installed my new Megs. I am glad I put out the extra $$$$. These things are extremely cool. Very fat and very long, the top pipe comes right up to the back edge of the rear wheel. Sound is excellent. At idle they are much louder than mod-stock but much deeper. At cruising speed they rock. If you like the sound of a 5.0 Mustang GT; you're gonna like these. Very deep with ample volume.
  • Down falls - they only send 2 new clamps. The instructions say to use the other stockers. They don't fit! The paint job on the inside of the pipes is not very good but can be fixed easily. For $437.00 I do expect a little more.w
  • All together I am pleased and can't wait to run into HOTROD Harleyman next time I'm on the street. Ride Safe.

    MATT #159

• ... the Jardine Drag slip-on
  • I installed the Jardine Drag slipons on my 95. Quality is excellent. Sound is LOUD.
  • Almost too loud at times. The drags may upset the neighbors.

    JeffPGA

• ... Cobra Exhausts
  • We have the Cobras on a 94 and the sound is very similar to a chevy small block. To me, the change in sound/performance with the Cobras was not worth the $$.

    JeffPGA

• ... Vance & Hines Classic II
  • (The IIs are cheaper than the original Classics because V&H is now using a steel insert in the end of the pipe instead of a billet job that looked nicer but raised manufacturing costs.)
  • I have the V&H set on my 97 and they definitely have a deep rumble. They are not on the quiet side but not as loud as the Jardine drags I believe. Quality is first rate and everything fits perfectly. No cheap stuff here. I haven't felt the need to do anything to carbs. I went ahead and got Dave's shims but after installing the pipes about 3 months ago I noticed I don't really have a lean or flat spot in mid rpm range. Throttle response is pretty immediate through the entire band. Mfg recommends doing the carbs for top performance but all bikes are different. Mine runs great without any modification. (Todd)
• ... Jardine Forward Controls
  • I've had them for a while and love them, very easy to put on... (DanZman)
  • Had them for two years and love 'em. Also have the floorboards, makes for very comfortabe long distance riding. (Bob L.M.)
  • I have the jardine fwd controls with the mini floorboards. I ride fairly conservative style and love them. Quality is very good. (malthree)
  • I would not be happy with the fwd controls without the mini floorboards. If you carve the mountains, the fwd controls will "cramp your style" on the ground clearance. If you have the mini-floorboards down, they scrape before the hardware underneath scrapes! (malthree)
  • I had them for a while but I removed them. They caused me to lay my bike down.The bracket that attaches to the frame is the lowest part of the bike when you turn,and it does not give the way the stock foot pegs do. It will lift your bike off the road. I know first hand. I'm not saying don't get them, but be careful in the turns.
  • I had them and took them off. Good for freeway, but not good in town in stop and go. Unnatural leg position in town, because your leg is normally down when you stop. Always going down and out, then down and out. A hassle for me. (jas2239@jps.net)
• ... the K&N Camaro air filter
  • The conversion is not cut and dry, as almost nobody has a clear definition of how to install it. It can be turned in either direction, set high or air lid ground to sit low in the plastic. Truth is I spent a good deal of time looking at all the possibilities, and don't see the perfect fit I would feel comfortable with. First of all, the filter needs to be the same thickness as stock to allow proper air flow and not rest on (or hit) the carb bells. The K&N actually tightly covers one carb completely, half covers another, and clears the last two.

    Dave Dodge - DRP

• ... the Targa 1/4 drag fairing
  • I like the looks and the way it blends with the turn signals. I get many compliments and it gives the Magna a uniqueness.
  • You don't get good wind protection at any thing over 60 mph unless you tuck behind the screen. The protection is complete but not comfortable (like riding a sport bike). If your are 5'6" or less, it will probably give you sufficient protection at speed while riding upright. I am 5'10" and the wind is a bit much from the neck up at speed.

    (Mike Rigsby #23)

• ... who gets to ride up front???
  • The magna does fine as a two up ride IF you follow Tom's suggestion and spring for the Mustang Regal seat and a backrest. Most of the first 15,000 on mine was done that way. (HOTMAG)
  • You MUST get an aftermarket seat to carry a 5'9" passenger anywhere near 300 mi per day. The stock seat will never do. I recommend a Mustang regal seat. I've had one for 16 months and now my wife will ride with me. (Tom)
  • Well, I love my Magna and it's a great bike. I have some concerns for you if your wife's 5'9. My girlfriend's only 5'0" and she complains about how high the footpegs are. If your wife's 5'9, she'll hate that. (DanZman)
  • I own a Magna and I'm 5'2". Riding on the front for me is great but when I get on the back with my boyfriend driving I have to tell you it sucks. The pegs are too high and the seat very uncomfortable. (Karen)
  • I've had the seat altered and fitted a sissybar to stop my wife going solo under acceleration! She is 5'7" and complains that the footrests are too far forward which puts all her weight onto the base of her spine. Also the rear dampers are a bit crude so I might replace those.

    But she says she does like the Magna really. Honest! (Bob)

• ... Soft luggage
  • If you have the passenger backrest and the luggage rack, you could look at T-Bags. The fit over the backrest and come in assorted sizes. (Tom - MRA#169)
  • I use a kids backpack from Wallmart ($10.00) and they come in lots of colors. We can put a couple of jackets, a water jug, camera, smokes,ect... in it. The straps cris cross the backrest and go under the mounting bracket for the sissy bar. For longer trips we also have a set of soft HondaLine saddlebags that fit perfect. (Thumper)
  • If you are interested in a bike specific bag, I would highly recommend the Roadgear tail bags. Saddlebags are not my thing and I have the larger of the two tailbags Roadgear offers and have gotten excellent use out of it. It can hold up to 4 days worth of clothing and though semi-rigid, it has a great deal of expansion room due to it's pleated side panels. Comes with intergal bungees and a shoulder strap plus a water proof elastic cover for a little under a C-note. I think the smaller one is about 20 bucks cheaper. At last glance the color options for the cordura bags were black,red/black, and red/gray.

    I combine it with a tank bag for extended rides and have been very successful. In fact, I only use my T-bag if the wife and I are doubling on long trips because it is a bit bulky to pack around.

    Hope this helps...

    HOTMAG

  • I've been using a Junior TourBag from RevPack for both commuting and a couple of long trips. I recommend both the products and the company. They also offer soft saddlebags, tank bags and several other variations for carrying stuff with you. Their stuff is well made and relatively inexpensive. (sfarrar)
• ... Mustang Wide Nostalgic Saddle

  I have been thinking of buying a Mustang Wide Nostalgic, however, I just read on another Magna post that it actually moves the driver forward on the bike shortening the distance to the bars and controls. I was under the impression that the saddle was supposed to give the driver more room, not less. What is the straight scoop here?

  Tom G

  • I got that seat. It will move you back and up. I love it. Took a few rides to get use to sitting up higher but the back part was a joy from the first sitdown :) I never had much problem with the stock seat, just a little tingle after a 50 or 75 mile stint. The new seat i can ride a hundred and jump off without making funny noieses or walking like Fester from Gunsmoke. The wife said she will not go back to a stock seat!!!! (Thumper)
  • I have this seat and I do sit farther back from the handle bars. My legs do not go to sleep anymore. My son loves the wider seat when he is a passenger, because the stock seat is 9 inches wide and the new seat is 12 inches wide. The looks are great. (Jerry from San Diego)
• ... Sargent Cycle Product Seats

  Can anyone else tell me if they have had any experience with this company in Florida? I am sending my stock 99 Magna seat to them tomorrow to have it redone with Griptex seat cover with Supercell?

  Fred Kahn

  • Great folks doing outstanding work. They reworked my stock seat so that I fit the bike much better. It ain't cheap but it is worth it! Check out #159 on the members list for some pics. I went with Sargent because I wanted a solo seat and there were none available. I had the rise moved back as far as they could. Widened the seat about 1" . Dished the butt area so it really sucks you in. Had the supercell foam installed in front seat only. They recovered both seats with leather I supplied for $280.00. Their cost for the leather was too high so I found some locally. It took about 2 weeks. (MATT #159)
  • I used these folks to re do my 84 Sabre seat. They did a good job. They lowered it a couple of inches, put in firmer foam and covered it with Griptex. They really seem to know what they are doing and were very helpful. Two thumbs up based on my experience.Dale M.