From time to time, an owner of a 'new-to-me' Magna will ask how to balance their bike on a Larin Lift when the bike is so tail heavy. One of my neighbors kindly took a couple of spur-of-the-moment pictures of an adapter I made recently and I'd like to share them along with a one page ruler-n-pencil dimensioned drawing and maybe some notes there wasn't room for on the drawing.
Notes:
The adapter is solid and works great. It is simple enough to build, strong, and when mounted on the lift, rolls right under with the bike resting on it's sidestand. I have a larger, heavier 170/80 Dunlop rear tire and a Cycle-istic break stay rod, but it looks like there would still be plenty of room to roll it under a bike with a stock 150/80 tire. The concept and function of this adapter comes from a picture MadMax had posted elsewhere some time ago (imitation-flattery intended). It functions by creating a 3-surface offset plane with support up under the swingarm brace in front of the rear tire and support at the two frame rails under the motor.
My version of the adapter is constructed of 3 layers of ½" plywood with a block of 2x4s on one end. There is a cutout in the back edge to clear the sidestand, two shallow troughs spaced to fit the frame rails and 3 holes to bolt the adapter to the lift.
Key to making it solid so it will not flex under the bike's weight, I think, is the use of copious amounts of wood glue, clamps and screws; I put the 1¼" screws in from the top and bottom spaced about every 6 inches and let it dry overnight. Used 2½" screws & glue with the block of 2x4s, the (2) 5" pcs. on top of (2) 7" pcs. and (1) 7" pc. on the front for stability. To route in the two 1-ply deep troughs, I used a Dremmel with a small sanding drum, took just a few minutes. The bolt pattern on my Larin Lift may or may not be identical to one you have, so I'd suggest drilling small pilot holes, inverting the adapter and lift and confirm the pilot holes are centered in the bolt holes. To prevent the heads of the Allen bolts from hitting the frame rails, I counter-bored a 1" diameter hole ¼" below the top surface to contain the washer and bolt head. Sawed a coffee can size radius on the corners to allow the lift stabilizer arms to swing out clear. Attached the 2x4 block with 3" screws up thru the plywood. Block sanded the edges. Finally, sprayed the adapter with several coats of spar urethane to make clean up easier. Paint would also work.
I snug the adapter to the lift with the bolts just to make placement under the bike more consistent; in back, make sure the break stay rod bolt is not sitting on the 2x4 block and that the far side rail is positioned to go into the trough. The bike is balanced well enough raised on the lift that I can sit on it without tie downs, but you can bet I'll use tie downs every time I start wrenching on the bike.
Standard disclaimer: I build it, I use it; you build it, you use it at your own risk.
N.J. Rockwell (MRA #994)
