Installing the M/C Enterprises oil pressure gauge.
Tools needed:
1/2" and 9/16" wrenches
Crescent wrench
Slipjoint pliers or small pipe wrench
Short Phillips screwdriver
Roll of teflon tape to seal fittings.
How to:
Pop the rubber boot off of the oil pressure sensor where it goes into the crankcase.
Loosen the wire on the sensor so that it doen't break when you're unscrewing it. Better yet, remove it entirely. It's a pain to hook it back up, but not nearly as a big a pain as reconnecting it to the end if you snap it off. (I know...)
Thread the male hex connector into the crankcase and snug it down. Make sure to use teflon tape on the threads of all fittings as you go or the assembly WILL leak. (again, I know) see photo below for details.
Attach the "T" connector to the hex tap so that the bottom of the "T" faces out when tightened down.
Attach the short double threaded tube to the bottom of the "T" facing you and snug it down tight with some slip joint pliers or a pipe wrench.
Note: Make sure to tighten all of the fittings as tightly as possible as you go, since it will be impossible to rotate the entire assembly once it's all put together (it will hit the head) Any slop in the beginning will be amplified by the time you get to the last section and it will be hard to get it tight enough to "hold oil".
Attach the smaller ot the two 90° connectors to the end of the tube and tighten it to align with the angle of the rear cylinder head (this will make sense later, as it will yield the correct viewing angle once it's all together.)
Attach the final 90° fitting and tighten so that everything is squared up in line with the bike.
Prepare the gauge itself by fitting the chrome cup to the gauge. I found that the cup has a tendency to slip off of the gauge and so you might want to secure it with some double stick tape or 3M wall mounting squares (I used these.)
Screw the gauge onto the last fitting. (You've remembered to use teflon tape on all of those threads, right?) Once it's tight, use a wrench to snug it down and turn it to where the gauge reads upright.
Re-attach the sensor to the top of the "T" fitting. I routed the wires under the gauge to make it as clean as possible. Re-attach the sensor wire to the top of the sensor. Slide the boot over the assembly as it was in the beginning. This might be a little tough, since there's less slack in the wire now. Be careful not to break off the delicate sensor wire as you do this. You'll know if you did, cuz the oil pressure light won't go off when you start it up.
Fire it up and check for leaks. Sadly, they won't appear until you go out and ride it hard, since the pressure at idle is minimal. If you used teflon tape on all of the threads and tightened well as you went, you should have no problems.
Park the bike somewhere and watch people's reactions when they notice this "trick" little item!!
Try to figure out why they didn't CHROME the damn fittings?! (Winter project alert!)
